Tokyo Food

(Last update April 2023)

 
UPDATE April 2023: After our most recent visit, can I just say how happy I am that nearly all of our favorite places survived Covid!

We get asked a lot about our favorite places to eat in Tokyo. Back in 2016, we lived in southern Shibuya in a neighborhood called Ebisu. We've been back several times since, and it's actually tough giving recommendations because most folks visiting Tokyo have visions of Michelin-starred, special occasion omakase experiences but we spent most of our time looking for folksy, cheap, down-home neighborhood eats. If you're thinking "Jiro: Dreams of Sushi", I'd say just hit the Michelin guide for Tokyo and let your hotel or Amex concierge book for you. If you're thinking more "Midnight Diner" then continue on...

TIP: Some places you may need to look at the Kanji from the Instagram check-in or the Google Street View to help find the place. Also, I've omitted places where you need to speak/read Japanese to dine.

 

Sushi

Every guidebook tells you to go to Tsukiji fish market, and you should. (Update) The Tsukiji fish market may have moved to a new location in Toyosu, but the "outer" Tsukiji market is still alive and well! If you're a true lover of sashimi/sushi, just stop in at one of the stalls and grab a tray or two of just-caught tuna for a fraction of what it'd cost you in the US. We did this often enough that I genuinely started to worry about mercury poisoning! Get some tamago omelette on a stick while you're at it.

Be sure to say "itadakimasu!" to thank mister fish for his sacrifice to your meal!

Shin Kawa sushi. Ebisu (map 🗾). We used to go here for lunch. Small, quiet, full of locals. No English. Don't be intimidated, there are only two choices when you walk in: chirashi (bowl style) or nigiri (individual pieces). Everyone orders chirashi. You should too. Everything is perfect and reasonably priced (≈ ¥1000).

look at the knife skills on that cucumber!

Tenka Sushi. Shibuya (map 🗾). This is a great kaiten (conveyor belt) sushi place. Cheap, lots of locals, some traditional stuff, some crazy stuff. Try the "bonito carpaccio" with lettuce and Italian dressing and mayo. Or the deep fried shrimp with mayo and unagi sauce. The spigot next to each seat dispenses hot water for the teabags. Don't be shy about shouting your order to the chefs if you want something that's not currently on the belt.

Our plate stack was so high an old man came over and asked if we were training for a sumo match!

Another great conveyor belt place is Kaiten Sushi Ginza Onodera (in Omotesando). They've got a wide variety of dishes and a high-tech ordering system that lets you see the real time popularity chart of what your fellow diners are ordering.

Sushi greatest hits!

Niku Sushi "Meat Sushi". Ebisu (inside the little Yokocho market 🗾). Who says you have to love fish to love sushi? It's not really for picky eaters, though, because you're going to get at least half a dozen parts of the cow (or horse) that Americans rarely eat.

Noodles

Afuri Ramen. Ebisu, Roppongi Hills, several others. Their specialty is yuzu ramen. The random question they ask you when you sit down is if you want an extra ladle of super-tasty chicken fat in the bowl. The answer is "Hai!" Their summer cold ramen with Yuzu jelly is super refreshing on a hot day.

Kaoriya Soba. Ebisu (map 🗾). The best soba I've ever eaten. Make sure you order the dashimaki tamago to start – it's a nice way to enjoy the quality of their dashi.

Tsukumo ramen (aka 九十九 or 99 Ramen). Ebisu (map 🗾). A machine grates a little Matterhorn of cheese onto your ramen and it slowly turns to ramen fondue while you eat. Definitely get a beer to help wash this down. For the crazy backstory on why 99 is pronounced "tsukumo", check this link.

For something even less traditional, hit Ten To Sen. Shimokitazawa (map 🗾).  Spicy and complex and floral and saffron-y… And the deep-fried burdock root is mind blowing.

We had some super tasty Tsukemen in Ueno station at Rokurinsha 六厘舎. Definitely get a side of their "Nama Schichimi" chili paste!

Pizza

Walking from our neighborhood in Ebisu to Shibuya we encountered this very NYC-looking storefront that sells New York style pizza. Like the whole thing looked like it was built by the McNally folks.

Okonomiyaki

Monja Mugi. Tsukiji (map 🗾). Okonomiyaki is actually from Western Japan. Its Tokyo-area cousin is called Monjayaki. It's a bit more runny and soupy but it's still quite tasty. There's an entire district near Tsukiji dedicated to restaurants serving it. I'd be falling down on the job if I didn't mention that before an actual Okonomiyaki place.

Jingumae Yaiyai. Shibuya (map 🗾). Get the Amakara or the Negi. 

Bakeries

Shirahige cream puff. Shimokitazawa (map 🗾) Not sure if they're officially licensed, but if you want Studio Ghibli cream puffs in an adorable tree fort-like space, go here.

Shibuichi bakery (Shibuya) is tucked into an alley and has heaps of tasty western-style baked goods. The lasagna toast was amazing! 

love the quiet outdoor area in the middle of Shibuya

Eki-ben

We spent so much time on trains that we ate a ton of these little bento boxes during our stay. They run the full gamut: from fancy department stores' $80 ekiben full of wagyu beef to the train platform kiosks' rice and vegetable ekiben for $6. My favorite was this one: pull the little rip-cord and it heats itself up!! Look for the "a-chi-chi" on the label あっちっち

Other Japanese

Niagra Curry Station. Nakameguro (map 🗾). Model railroad curry! Be careful – the spicy curry is actually really, really spicy!

Mokubaza in Sendagaya is another super cute and cozy curry shop. 

Tonki Tonkatsu. Meguro (map 🗾). Tonkatsu is a breaded and deep-fried pork cutlet. Tonki's is legendary. The line starts well before they open, so plan accordingly.

  

Parting Thought…

I posted this to Instagram and I think it's a great mantra: be brave!

“I'm intentionally not tagging this photo because awesome #Ramen is so ubiquitous and cheap in #Tokyo that all you need to do is just walk into the little shop underneath the train tracks and order what everyone else is having”

Coffee

Japan has amazing coffee, it's just not quite as ubiquitous as it is in New York. There's a coffee search engine here. Three personal favorites:

• Verve (map 🗾). Seattle-style coffee in Shinjuku station. Near the NeWoMan mall. 
• Coffee Crown (map 🗾). Old school Japanese kissaten – a time warp to 1962. 
• Sarutahiko (map 🗾). Great third-wave coffee place. They also have a shop in the Ebisu station mall.
• 24/7 Kiosk (map 🗾) in south shibuya roasts on-site and has croissant doughnuts that are better than the Cronut (get the kinako flavor)

Also

My main Japan tips page is here.
My New York City food guide is here.
Some fun things we did in Taipei here.

Sydney food page is here. 

Montreal food page is here. 
Mexico City!

Keyword

Alternative title for this page was "Where we ate in Tokyo" and "Tokyo Restaurants"